geo archives / march 2025

On the slopes of Kilimanjaro, where the air thins and every step demands resilience, one man moves with unwavering purpose. Eliaza Mmbaga, known as Elly, has spent decades guiding climbers up Africa’s highest peak, not just leading them to the summit, but shaping their journey in ways they never anticipated. His presence is more than a professional necessity, it is the invisible force that lifts spirits, steadies weary legs, and turns a physical challenge into a life-changing experience.

his journey to the roof of Africa began long before he first set foot on the mountain. Growing up in vuje, a Tanzanian village, he was fascinated by the ‘Wazungu’, the foreign visitors who would come to his church, his school, his community To speak English, to engage with these outsiders, was seen as a mark of intelligence and opportunity. He practiced eagerly, piecing together words in broken English, unknowingly laying the foundation for his future. it wasn’t just the language that intrigued him. A neighbor in his village was a tour guide well-respected, financially secure, a symbol of success and This image planted a seed in young Elly’s mind. Later, as a member of his high school’s mountain club, he found himself drawn to the challenge of the climb, the camaraderie of the trails, and the pull of Kilimanjaro’s towering presence.

Elly’s career began at the very bottom literally. In 1996, he started as a porter, carrying heavy loads up the steep paths of the mountain. It was grueling, unforgiving work. But with every climb, he absorbed knowledge, watched experienced guides interact with trekkers, and studied the delicate balance between leadership and companionship. By 1997, he had earned his place as an assistant guide and Years later, he would become a lead guide, carrying not just the weight of a backpack, but the responsibility of other people’s dreams.

His first guiding experience was an awakening. Tourists listened intently to his words, asking him questions about the mountain, the culture, the land. He quickly realized that being a guide was about much more than physical endurance. It required knowledge, storytelling, patience, and a profound understanding of people.

For Elly, Kilimanjaro is more than a mountain, it is a teacher. It mirrors life itself, with its ups and downs, its moments of struggle and triumph. The slow, deliberate pace of ‘pole pole’ teaches patience, while the mountain’s ever-changing conditions reinforce the importance of adaptability. Above all, he has learned that success is not just about reaching the summit but it is about the journey, the people, and the lessons gathered along the way.

He has also witnessed how the mountain is changing. Glaciers that once seemed eternal have retreated. The seasons, once predictable, now shift unexpectedly. And the climbers have changed too. While many still come to conquer the peak, more and more arrive seeking something deeper, a connection to nature, to culture, to themselves.

Guiding is more than a job for Elly, it is an emotional investment. He has seen climbers break down in tears, overwhelmed by the challenge or by personal revelations discovered on the trail. He recalls a woman who reached the summit and silently took out two wedding rings, holding them for a long moment before throwing them into the crater, a symbolic farewell to a lost love.

He has also formed unbreakable bonds. One American family invited him to the United States to climb other mountains together. Other clients have returned, bringing their children, ensuring the next generation experiences the magic of Kilimanjaro through Elly’s guidance.

But the most rewarding moments come from perseverance, like the climber who had failed twice before finally summiting under Elly’s leadership. In gratitude, that same climber later paid for Elly’s advanced training, helping him further his career. Others have offered support in times of crisis, like the Brazilian tourists who sent financial help during the COVID-19 pandemic, knowing how deeply the loss of tourism affected guides and porters.

Elly’s dream was never just to climb Kilimanjaro, it was to build something lasting. Today, he has established his own tour agency, aiming to create opportunities for others, just as the mountain once created opportunities for him. But he knows that the future of Kilimanjaro depends on more than just business. It requires environmental conservation, fair wages for porters and guides, and a commitment to preserving the ecosystem that has given so much to so many.

If he weren’t a guide, Elly says, he would be a teacher. In truth, he already is one. Every day on the mountain, he teaches climbers resilience, humility, and respect for nature. He embodies the spirit of Kilimanjaro, strong, steady, and deeply connected to the land beneath his feet.

And as long as there are people dreaming of reaching the summit, eliaza mmbaga will be there, walking between worlds, bridging the gap between challenge and triumph, between the mountain and the climbers who seek its heights.